PFW13

The first day of shows for us at Paris Fashion Week was stacked with some of our favorites.

At Isabel Marant, it was clear that Elvis has left the building - the Americana-mining of past collections was not on display for Fall 2013.  Rather, a more subdued palette was offered in the form of blacks, midnight blues, and snowy whites which allowed for the focus to turn to the interplay of the sheer, monotone layered looks.

Extra long, fine rib knits were almost conservative - if not for the variations on cut-outs and cropped lengths (ranging from above the midriff to an even braver above the chest length).  Layered over sheer tanks and barely-there suggestions of a skirt (or were those long shirt-tail hem peeking out from under the tops?), the effect was effortless and classic Isabel.  As were the ball-studded boxy jackets, wrapped minis, and metallic sashes.   Perhaps most anticipated though were the shoes - the new multi-strapped ankle boots with wedge heels will surely join the cult status ranks of her other wait-list only shoes.

Isabel Marant FW13

Isabel Marant FW13

Next, we headed to Maison Martin Margiela.  The plastic poncho that was the invite to the show had us thinking of last season's saran-wrapped runway, and what might happen this season that might require a plastic poncho.

At the Gymnase Japy location of the show, the floors and walls were made from chipboard covered with broad paint strokes of white.   A theme which continued onto the clothing itself - a crisp white shirt with exaggerated cuffs and tailored wide leg trousers were streaked with fluoro paint gestures.  A pristine all-white ensemble came out with a clear plastic overcoat (just in case). 

Runway backdrop at Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Martin Margiela FW13

Maison Martin Margiela FW13

Maison Martin Margiela FW13

Later in the evening was Yohji Yamamoto.  It was if the designer was giving an ode to youth this season.  The girls sported blunt, shiny black bobs, messenger bags and canvas platform sneakers, the uniform of Ghost World teens and late 80's Winona movie characters... but in the most elegant way.  Dresses made from geometric shapes that looked simultaneously like punky pyramid stud facets and origami folds made of fabric that moved with an incredible lightness and bounce. All the signature Yohji black was broken up by a crayola-hued interlude of ribbed knits, and gloves given manicures in primary colors.  The younger spectrum of the Yohji Yamamoto standing crowd were so enthusiastic they were literally climbing the rafters to catch a glimpse. 

show invite!

Yohji Yamamoto FW13

Yohji Yamamoto FW13

More to come.....